Ring sizing question

[RistraRanch]

Hello Chatty Metalsmiths!
I am trying to figure out ring sizing. I had no problem using a mandrel to size when I was making rings that were perfectly round...but now I am making more organic shapes. I can tell that the mandrel is not sizing them accurately by how they fit on my own fingers. How on earth do you size rings like this? Any advice appreciated, thank you!

[oiseaumetalarts]

maybe try using a slotted mandrel to check the size... trial and error really. knowing what size your own fingers are and seeing what the ring fits like.

you have pic of the rings you are having the issue with?

[RistraRanch]

Thanks Damon, but I am already using a slotted mandrel and it's not giving me accurate measurements.

I haven't photographed yet, but they aren't particularly uniquely shaped - just have large freeform stones that are on flat sterling bases with the ring shanks attached at either side.

[Former_Member]

Damon has it right. Near all mine are like you are doing RistraRanch. Practice by making rings that fit your fingers....and size. There is no "formula" for doing this type ring. By doing that you will figure out what a size 7 looks like on the slotted mandrel. Those mandrels are made for setting faceted stones...so the stone does not touch the mandrel.

Sizing after the sale, to a specific size the buyer wants can be tuff. I have sized them 2 or 3 times to get it right. 9 out of 10 I get it right the first time. Read my feed back to see the last one I did 3 times.

Make them to fit your known size.

[RistraRanch]

Thank you JD Woody. I was wondering if there was some magical formula I had missed, and felt like such an amateur sizing rings on my own fingers...Good to hear that more experienced artisans are doing the same thing.

[khmetalwork]

I have found that regardless of shape, the size stays the same. In other words if I cut a strip of 16g 4mm wide, 58.1mm long no matter the shape of the ring - round, square, finger shaped, it will be a size 7.

You could make a round ring to size, then (anneal first), shape.

[Former_Member]

So, if I understood your ring description correctly they are basically half round half flat (due to the stone setting) shanks. If that's the case, the one I use is a flat sided ring mandrel. It is similar to the grooved mandrel but it has a larger flat side for the cabochon bezel to rest against while it is being formed.

I never had any problems using the flat sided mandrel to size my rings, but I don't use it that often. And even after using this (or any other mandrel) I try the ring and and then I ring sizer to compare sizes. Even when I worked with a high end jeweler where all the rings had very specific measurements (down to 0.04mm), they still double checked the size (feel) of the ring with their own finger and ring sizer.

Be careful if annealing and then reshaping to not stretch the ring.

Good luck!

[RistraRanch]

Flavia, that is exactly it! I never heard of a flat sided ring mandrel...Going to look for one now. Thank you!

And thanks, everyone, for all the input and advice. Much appreciated.

Happy holidays to you all!

[oiseaumetalarts]

i think rio hac several different shaped ones, but im not sure if they are marked with sizes.