Former_Member
Hi everyone!

First of all, happy, happy Wednesday!

Secondly, I am a technical designer for a very large fashion company. At work, we use Lectra for all our pattern work. I eventually want to take what I have learned from my experience working at this company and branch out on my own as an independent pattern maker but am stumped as to how I can create the patterns. Lectra/Gerber are too expensive to buy privately. So I ask you all, how do you go about making your patterns? What programs do you use? And how do you produce/manufacture your product? I appreciate any help and advice you cana give me :)

Sincerely ALWAYS,
Maddie
www.madalynne.com
Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Shirley, what do you mean by you have problems keeping your lines straight? I pretty much do my patterns from start to finish in Illustrator, and to grade I do slash-and-spread in a sense.

What I originally did was scan my basic blocks and trace and true up the lines. I keep fles of things like basic sleeve grades so I can copy that instead of re-doing (unless there is a detail change) and files of my basic backgrounds, etc. as templates. Anything more complicated I draft by hand, scan and grade. It took me a bit of getting used to at first but now I can draft and grade quickly. I just have a new baby so making my samples is slower ;)

Love to share tips if anyone is interested.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hello all,
I have a really dumb question. I use Microsoft software to draft patterns (because I'm too cheap to buy real software), but I've been having trouble with getting the markings on the patterns to adhere to the outline of the pattern piece. I found a great tutorial for doing something similar
(http://www.danamadeit.com/2008/07/tutorial-how-to-make-graphics-in-word.html), but she uses a Mac, and I have a PC! It doesn't have the Save As Picture option when I right click. Does anyone have any advice???
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

I draw a pattern using a sloper first that is the size of my own child and make my deisgn changes on it, then add seam allowances and start sewing up testers to see how I like the fit on her. Once I get it perfect, I grade up and down by hand and test the other sizes on my tester volunteers. Once that is finished, I draw up the patterns, cut them into pieces and scan the pieces on my scanner in PDF form and import them into Inkscape. There is a learning curve on that, but I have pretty much mastered it for my own use. I trace my drawn designs and digitize, add all of the extra stuff, and save each page as it's own PDF. I write up the tutorial and inserts pics of hte process in word, then save that finished product as a PDF also. The finished product is in several PDF files, so I go to www.pdfjoin.com and put them all together into one single file. It's a labor of love fore sure, but I enjoy the whole process. The biggest problem is cranking out the patterns fast enough for my brain to think up all the new designs I want to try!

Laurie
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

I was wondering if there were any new discoveries or developments on this front? I have been looking at a few and the current favorites are Garment Designer, as it is relatively inexpensive and Pattern Maker and Fashion Cad but they are pricier. Fashion Cad has the advantage of entering vintage patterns by digitizing a jpeg of the original in the program. Would love to hear if there's anything else!
cheers,
Felix
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

As somebody who is out of work and has a disabled household member, buying these expensive programs is out of the question. Most people do not have a few thousand lying around.

What I personally have done is:
1) scan in patterns. I do this by taping it to taped together 8.5" x 11" papers then scanning them, making sure to overlap sections. I scan at 600 dpi personally.
2) open files in photoshop. Using the multiply setting, I put each piece together like a puzzle.
3) Using the pen tool (you do NOT need a new version of photoshop for this, older ones are cheaper as long as they have pen tool), I trace the lines of each pattern piece and then, with a 5pt brush, I "stroke" the lines. This creates the lines. If you have graded by hand, you can also do dashed lines, etc.
4) After doing this for all pieces of the pattern, I put them into one big image. I arrange them so they are all their own layer.
5) I created a "pattern" in photoshop so that it sets a grid over my work. This rectangle grid must be smaller than 8.5" x 11" (I think I use 6" x 9" but I'd have to check). I put a symbol at every line where the patterns connect. I use a heart and then put "A" on both sides (so 2 As), then B on the next line and so on (so they can connect pieces after printing).
6) I make sure everything is aligned logically on the grid. I then combine the layers (not the top grid layer though) and cut each of the pieces in each rectangle and put it in a new document. This new document has one rectangle, which is the size of the grid rectangles and I paste the image into this rectangle along with the page number in the bottom corner.
7) I make instructions in Word.
8) I combine all Pattern pages into one PDF and instructions into another PDF (to make it easier to print just patterns)

It's a bit time consuming but a cheaper option than everything else. Older copies of photoshop are cheaper and I feel the result is much nicer than using Word or just hand drawing and scanning. It's a good medium. I read multiple blogs on these techniques, finding the Burda one being best, before settling on how I did mine. If anybody wants an example of how I did mine, I have a very simple free pattern at:
http://mixymitzy.wordpress.com/2013/04/07/free-handkerchief-pattern/
Where you can see basically how mine are done. (since my instructions may be confusing)

GL everybody who is starting out! Just remember, read everything you can then devise the way that is best for you and your skill set...and your wallet.

Anyone can convo me if they have questions about my technique. I believe sharing is caring :)
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

All my patterns are PDFs so I use Adobe Illustrator :)
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hello everyone,

I am new to the group and just released my first paid pattern.

I use Inkscape (which is free) to draft the patterns. This can only output one PDF page at a time, so my husband has written a simple program to output each page in turn (using a hidden layer with page guides). It then joins the instructions (made in Word) and the separate PDF pattern pages into one PDF document.
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

I use a few programs, for different purpose. I draw a patterns in Rhinoceros (it is a 3d program, and you could work as a 2D too. I like it because it is easy to draw in measurements in it. I could measure the curve lengths and stuff like that.
Then I use FreeHand for marking my lines in different colors and I place all paper pattern instructions here.
In Photoshop I crop and do all the stuff with pictures and in Quark I do make instructions step by step with photo for every step.
I forgot to mention FreeHand is good for having more pages on one layout (I don't know how to do this in Illustrator).
And if I make a video too I use Premiere for it.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

We are a studio specialized in all prototyping related services. We use several software in our studio including Gerber, Lectra , Optitex etc

Each one has its own merits. Some are more acceptable worldwide because of their market share and some others are easier to use like Optitex .

For Patterns our favourite is Optitex, For Grading we like Lectra and for markers, we like Gerber more.

For a beginner, I would recommend some software which are not too popular but have a very good set of tools at a price that is affordable too.

Stylecad, Richpeace and Geminicad is something I can recommend as I have used each one of them and did not find it lacking in any areas as such. Having said that, Its better to go with a product which has a local support as training is a very essential part of the sotware.

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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

I learned old school pattern drafting. So I draft all my patterns by hand and then scan them into my computer and convert to vector files.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi Everyone,

About DesignSew, I am the Creative Director at DesignSew.com and I am very Sorry that some of you have had problems contacting support to inquire about the Software, if you have any questions please contact me and I would be very happy to answer any & all questions. We have videos tht show the CAD grading system for those that wonder how it works there are videos at http://youtube.com/gopattern
The PDF plotter allows you to generate the patterns you draft to sectioned pattern sheets. I also appreciate all the good things some of you mentioned about the software, thanks!
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi. I'm new to the whole pattern making scene. I've made my own patterns for my own personal use for years, but I'm just starting to make them to sell as PDF files. My question is how do I get them printed for those that want to purchase hard copies of a pattern, or to have them in someone's shop??
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi, I would love to start offering PDF patterns but am baffled by what sort of software to use. I worked as a Gerber pattern cutter for 15 years but can't afford their software (£7000) for home use, what would be the most similar to Gerber I wonder? Quite happy for it to be alot more basic, just thinking about navigating around the functions. I have downloaded a trial of Cameo but they what $35 plus $55 postage to send me the book & I cant work it out at all! Wondering if Photoshop would give a professional enough job?
I'm also interested, as Kellie in the post above, to know how to get a hard copy printed, other than buy a large plotter.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi,
I have a pattern that I would love to convert to a pdf pattern to sell online but lack the skills to do this. I am happy to pay someone to do it for me. Does anyone know a place that does this type of work?
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

There are quite a few options to create a PDF pattern. If you have a paper pattern and can scan it, then Posterazor is the way to go. It will "slice" up your pattern in as many pieces as you want, overlap seams and then outputs, (saves), it as a pdf. And it's free.
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JEWELSFUNWEAR
Inspiration Seeker

Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hello everyone
I have been reading the posts. Now I have a question about pattern drafting software. I am an experienced independent seamstress . I create dance competition costumes for a few studios every year plus doing alternations on formal and wedding gowns, occasionally creating a new gown for someone. I am a paper to pencil girl. This is the system I have used for years. I find a basic pattern and change it to my specs. Then I cut the material and fit the pattern to my mannequin making all necessary changes before making the rest of group. My question to someone is what program can I use to make my life easier. I have several sizes in each dance group to make so I would need to grade the pattern. I would also need to print them so I could use them. It would be great to make all the corrections before cutting that sometimes creates wast.I always have all measurements from each dance group before starting.
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi everyone,
I'm a technical designer too. I use Gerber for drafting patterns & grading etc.

What software can I use to export my patterns to? I want to be able to get them printed, at Staples for example. I also want to make them into PDF's so I can offer them for sale & people can print on their home printers.

I can export my pieces as DXF and my friend can put it into autocad and then save all as one big PDF but I want to stop bothering him.

I don't have AI. What can I use instead?

I think I saw someone said they brought it into word or excel. How do you do that?

Thanks!!!
Debbie
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi All, Thanks for your comments there are some great tips in there! I just read your last post Debbie and Anna. I am not sure if you ever found your answer but the way I get the pattern from my Style CAD software is to go to the output manager, choose HTML output, print to file (making sure the page frame length is huge, I set it to 200cm wide by 2000cm long, otherwise it all print ontop of its self) Then plot it to screen, it then prints out a .plt file that can be imported to Corel Draw and converted into .pdf or .ai files or .jpg. Thats how I do it!!!

What I am looking for is a way to print the .pdfs with corner registration marks that look like pieces of pie in the corners. I have Adobe reader and it can tile the large pages but I am looking for this type of .pdf software and not sure what was used to create the example that I have. Does anyone know if the Cameo program has this function?

Thanks, Lauren.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi, I design my own pattern making software, using the latest fast, lightweight, portable Web 2.0 technology.

You are invited to test-drive My Sloper, Pattern Making Software here,
http://kosherpatterns.com/mysloper
by signing up for a free account.

It is not a CAD software but an automated pattern-generator which outputs to PDF.
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

I personally use Adobe Illustrator, which gives me access to dashed lines, precise measurements and lots of other tools (you just need to know how to use it). It saves PDF versions easily and then I use pdfmerger.com to merge all the files into one and save it to my computer.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

i need help. i fell in love with a pant that ysl made back in the seventies. they were like a flair legged pant. and i want to get that pattern. does anyone know if yves saint laurent kept their patterns for their pants or clothes in some kind of archive that would be accessible to the public? or would i have to contact them to see if they can supply me with the pattern so that i would be able to recreate the pant? i am looking through ysl patterns that were mass produced but none of them show me the pant that i want. if you can help me if you know anything about it. or if there is a way to reproduce them i need that help. i do not have the pant anymore so i can not trace it.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

If I can, I would suggest anyone interested in learning patternmaking in Illustrator (and creating great instruction e-books in InDesign, and anything related) to check Lauren Dahl's PatternWorkshop: it's really cost-effective, plus you get a great support from her and a super nice FB group where you can chat of any problem you might have... and a forum for asking quetsions... and many more goodies!
I am an affiliate of her program (but I would suggest you having this course anyway!), so I'm leaving you here my link: http://patternworkshop.com?affiliates=MammaNene
You really should give it a try, this will be your best purchase in this field, promise!
Hugs from Italy - MammaNene - SergerPepper.com

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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

All my patterns are PDF, but for printing maybe Staples, or your local printing place. Staples is quite good, but on the more expensive side.
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Former_Member
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Re: What programs do Independent pattern makers use?

Hi Maddie, I love your blog. I wish I could get it to stop going to my others folder though! But that's another story. I use Inkscape. I create a page size that will fit my largest size first. I can set the exact dimensions for my markups then transfer the lines and curves from the original paper patterns I make. Once I have the pattern in one size I then make all the alterations necessary (thanks for your posts on this btw!) and its ready to go. To convert to individual pages I "cut" it up into sections and save as individual Inkspace documents (each page leaves space at the edge of the page where home printers do not print). After making the whole pattern functional and pretty I convert each page into a PDF (online) then use online PDF merge facilities to turn them into the one document. And Bob's your mother's brother! It takes a while but now I have the system down pat it's getting a lot faster.
xx
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