Interesting Kathy, the new "shrink proof" castings most of the pros I talk to use, they carve a wax to fit the stone and it comes out- the stone fits. I'm not so lucky, my teacher still does old school casting so it's almost like calculating shrinkage for metal clay or using a plug during firing. I don't mind a little carving though
No programmable electric, I have a plain old pressure cooker. Makes the best chicken stock for dumplings or stew in the whole world. I do love my pressure cooker
Kathy, if I was casting the settings for the stones I would have to have stones that would fit, but I will be adding the bezel cups later, after the basic ring form is cast...
Glad for peoples sales. My shop is pretty dead except for custom made pieces. But I like to have a break in Oct. so that is OK.
Loved that ring with the Moss Aquamarine on Instagram Pennee!
Our wind storm is picking up, but so far it isn't anything unusual. It is supposed to peak in about 2 hours. I would love it if we do not loose our power!
Crossing fingers for no power loss Dreia. I was able to reproduce multiples of consistent sized cabs and tiles for his castings Dreia, So his wax molds were made to fit my cabs.
It does say in the description: "This set has a lever style separating device, that is used to quickly separate the upper section of the disk cutter from the lower section to help remove punches that become stuck in the cut metal."
The problem is that the punches get stuck on every single cut. To put it back together you have to line up 2 loose springs between the 2 pieces. Pain in the neck, or a lower body part! No issues with cutting though. If I needed to make discs in volume, I would splurge for the Swanstrom one, but I don't, so can't justify the expense.
That one does not look much different than the ones I have Dianna,
Too bad it sticks.
Pennee the casting I am talking about was pewter and was mass produced by Ned for stores and the craft sale circuit. Sometimes I'd make a batch of cabs that were a mm too big or small and I guess it was a PITA to set them,
He finally gave up on ceramic and used resin because it was cheaper and faster.
Jen, I punch it through, so the top part of the punch is flush with the hole. The punch won't come out of the bottom piece though because it's stuck in the metal. I've tried pliers, nothing works except taking the 2 pieces apart. It comes apart in seconds, but is not as easy to reassemble.
I'd just love some bench time. Everything keeps getting in the way.
Dianna - your disc cutter tribulations remind me of my jump ringer. I finally decided it just isn't worth the hassle. I'd rather order rings. By the time I'd set the cutter up and wind the rings and the blades and then get a bad cut, it's just not worth it.
My class was fun. Only 3 students but we were done in just under 3 hours and they did great and signed up for another class and some other students are looking to learn to do something they can work on during a vacation in Hilton head (girls trip) so I. Going to teach them Byzantine chainmaille.
Hello! I've never posted on this thread before. I was hoping to come for some advice as a newer metalsmith. I hope it isn't rude to start off here with a question, but someone else suggested I'd get more replies here. :)
I've used files for smoothing out things like excess solder and scratches, but I've found that the files always scratch my metal badly, leaving lots of fine but noticeable ones, and sandpaper/buffing compounds haven't been sufficient remove the original or the new scratches. Can anyone suggest some quality but basic/necessary files and methods to remove any type of scratches (aside from prevention, which I'm working on)?
Rachel, I'm not an expert, but wondering if trying a file with a finer grit might help? It won't cut as deep into the metal, and the marks will be easier to sand out. Maybe a #4 file? I don't use my files for scratch removal, only for shaping, and excess solder removal. I try to be gentle when removing the solder so I don't end up with deep scratches. I can usually remove the deep file marks, but it takes a lot of sanding.
I wasn't too familiar with file cuts when I first purchased some, so I've tried my diamond needle files which I've seen recommended for solder removal, but they leave many fine scratches.
I'm hoping to start by buying a few more files. I'm wondering if brand is important. Maybe a new coarse, medium and fine file?
I'm also going to get some split mandrels to power-up my sandpapers, but I'm really not sure if that will work to remove scratches or not. I'm also planning on purchasing some silicone grinding point attachments for excess solder. Has anyone tried those?
Good morning. Beep, beep, beep....backing up a truckload of dust this morning! Enjoy!
Hi Rachael. Most files will leave scratches and you will have to use progressively finer sandpaper to remove those on your way to a perfect polish job. I rely heavily on 3M radial discs of different grades and I do use those silicone grinding points and wheels a lot. They're great but you have to get used to them so that you don't make deep grooves when removing extra solder. It takes a little practice to know which one to use, what direction to go in, and how long to use it but with practice you'll get a good feel for what you need to do for each particular job. I find the radial discs really flexible so they get into most tight spaces well. I highly recommend them.
I use 320 grit sandpaper for initial removal, then I have an emery wheel for my Dremel that takes the rest of it off without scratching. I *might* use a file if there's a lot to remove, but a lot of that is solved by learning to use a little less solder, too.
Good morning. Welcome, Rachel. Like Laura, I start with the AdvantEdge silicone polishing discs, then on to the 3m bristle discs. Just use a light touch with the silicone.
Hope K is better this morning.
Went to an Empty Bowls charity lunch with a friend yesterday, only to,find it's next week. For once, it wasn't my mistake. We wound up, having a yummy brunch at a local Brazilian restaurant. Later, had to go to a reception. So, no metal work was done.
Hi Rachel. As someone said, learning to use less solder is probably the first thing to practice, it sure helps not having much to remove, you can always add more. I use files a lot, I normally start with a #2 cut, then go to #4 and then finally to a #6 escapement file (it's a thin needle file). Then sanding sticks from 320 grit to 400, then 600. I always go opposite directions from the previous grit I used. I use the silicone points as well and for tiny areas I use the 2mm silicone pins- but you have to work very fast with the silicone so you don't leave ripples in the metal. Those take a lot of practice to get good at removing solder without leaving marks. For very light scratches the 3M radials are pretty nice- for a deeper scratch I don't find they work well so if you have a deeper one- sanding is your friend
