Bezel wire sizes

[TheJewelryBlock]

Hi all - does anyone have a good 1-sheet guide or explanation for matching the right size bezel wire to a stone? I'm new to soldering, and I am trying to figure out what size(s) bezel wire I should stock in my workshop. I'm not sure I can trust myself to cut the right size from a sheet. In case it's helpful, I'm looking at Rio Grande for most of my supplies. I'm not stuck on ordering from them though, so I'm open to suggestions for other suppliers.

[khmetalwork]

each stone is different unless you're using machine cut, calibrated stones, and even stones can differ slightly.

You will have to adjust the height of the bezel for each stone, that's one reason people skip the pre-made bezel stock instead sawing what they need from fine silver sheet.

[AppaloosaDesigns]

I keep a wide variety of sizes in my studio. I can always trim it down some using my shears if I need to, so if you are only going to buy one size, buy a slightly larger size. I'd say I use my 1/8 inch bezel wire most frequently, but its really going to depend on what stones you end up purchasing.

[TheJewelryBlock]

Thanks! Obviously every stone is different, so I might have to just get used to cutting from a sheet.

[khmetalwork]

that really is the best way. An invaluable tool for your bench is a pair of dividers, use them to get the right height and score the line on your metal to saw.

Also, use a heavy gauge metal; consider getting some 22g fine silver sheet and maybe some 18g fine silver for your bezels. Though it seems counter intuitive, the heavy bezel is far easier to work with than the thin, flimsy commercial bezel stock.

[Untwistedsister]

I've been using the premade stock from rio in the 26 gauge. I'm pretty new to soldering too. I find the thinner gauge easier to roll over a stone. I keep several styles in 1/8 in. and 3/16 which covers most stone depths.

[NanceDesigns]

If you plan to set faceted stones with a bezel you will want an 18 to 20 gauge sheet. That will give you a wide bezel to cut a seat half way or so into the wall for the girdle of the stone to sit onto. Once again, it is always about what stone you want to set.