e-6000 advice/alternatives

[KamilleFreske]

First off, I apologize for posting about this when there have already been so many posts regarding this glue. I just can't seem to find an answer!

I know E-6000 has a fantastic reputation as a jewelers glue, but for me it is behaving almost like the glue you get on a new credit card.

I have tried multiple stress tests with finished pieces, new ones and even a few from TWO YEARS AGO when the bond HAD to have cured. They all reacted the same, basically I tug at the attachment and it peels of with an elasticy string attached that I pull and it snaps off. It's rubbery, and I know that this glue is flexible but this can't be right. I thought it was supposed to be industrial. I have heard of people using it for all sort of things that need a lot of durability.

I am confused at how to get this glue to give me a nice strong bond. I am horrified by the thought of selling something and having it peel off for a customer.

I searched the forums and found a lot of recommendations for other adhesives. Tonight I bought three of them; Loctite Easy Gel, Weldbond, and Zap-A-Gap. I made more tests and they are currently drying but so far the Loctite is drying white (I need clear) and the Weldbond seems fragile, like Elmers. The Zap-A-Gap appears to be working well, but the smell is HORRID and I still have a headache even with the door and windows open.

The only thing I could thing of is that perhaps my new apartment it super humid and causing the glue not to fully cure, but that can't be it because the pieces I tested from a few years ago were made in another home that was very dry.

Please, anyone who has had success with e-6000 share your secrets for making it durable! And if you swear by any other glues please divulge. I am primarily gluing glass, metals, and plastics to one another.

Thanks so much, can't wait to hear from you!

[Former_Member]

I have also been disappointed with e-6000. I have had a lot of trouble working with this glue in both my shops. (cocosjewelry and cocobags). It's worse with jewelry; It's not just the properties of the glue itself but also how the the tube handles with no control on the glue coming out.

I've been told that Gutermann's has the best glue, but unfortunately, it is not sold in Canada and there are restrictions here on bringing it from the outside.

[FlameOnGlass]

I would suggest using an epoxy for those type of applications. I use Devcon 2-ton epoxy & have for many years with excellent results.

[KamilleFreske]

Coco, I know what you mean about the application. Fotunately I developed a nice little system where i squeeze a little out and then apply with a toothpick, but it really is a pain. I wouldn't mind though if it worked like so many people say it does!

Linda, I have heard that one mentioned before. Do you have any advice for applying it? I use resin for protecting my photo pendants, it's great for that but I can't begin to think of how you control it in more delicate applications.

Thanks guys!

[Former_Member]

What are you trying to glue together? thistothat.com may have a better recommendation, but I have always had good luck with Loctite. I think the Ultra Gel is what I use. It's in a black and blue bottle. I've used it to glue metal, plastic resin, rhinestones and not noticed it drying white. It has a very precise applicator, so I find it easier not to have much excess glue showing.
If thats not working, I wouldsecond linda's recommendation of 2 part epoxy.

[FlameOnGlass]

Kamille, I do not have a problem applying. You mix up a small amount & then just use a toothpick or even a pin for a really small application.

[Former_Member]

i was going to ask what it is you are gluing....
also suggest a 2 part epoxy

[KamilleFreske]

I am trying to glue glass to plastic, and glass to metal.

For some reason loctite just snapped off, perhaps I didn't let it cure enough. I waited 24 for that. Weldbond turned out to be worthless. I should have known something that didn't stink couldn't be too strong! Also for the record, Zap-A-Gap was incredibly strong. Totally bonded metal to plastic, and did a nice job on the glass to metal. I just want to avoid it if I can because of the headaches it induces.

Well it's back to the drawing board for me. I am going to give e-6000 another shot using tips I found after searching basically this whole evening! I found this advice here http://www.filigreebeading.com/Glue_Tips.html I am going to try following her technique. I also found a video on youtube by B'sue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggrb4X8Wev4&feature=relmfu . She uses e-6000 for all her collage jewelry and I cannot believe how heavy these pieces look and how she say's they've lasted since the late 80's early 90's.

I know I MUST be doing something wrong.

I am going to go try this right now. I bought a brand new tube of it and also some hypo-cement. Apparently that is the best for foil backed cabs and rhinestones... I don't know I am crossing my fingers! I will let you know the results :)

If this doesn't work I will have to try epoxy resin. I have been avoiding it because of the mess!

[UUendysCraftyCorner]

I have used E6000 for all my items. I have to use FORCE to get them apart. I will say that you CANNOT pull the glue as it stretches right out from underneath. I always suggest trimming it with either tiny sharp nail scissors or I have micro flush cutters.

[KamilleFreske]

Oh wow! It must be super durable to be holding up on earrings. Do you let them cure for a certain amount of time?

I usually wait about 24 hours, and then try to pull my stuff apart for tests. Sometimes it holds on pretty well, but when it comes off it peels. It's kind of like rubber cement. This happens even with items that have been curing for weeks.

[UUendysCraftyCorner]

I usually have mine done in 24 hours. So far no complaints.

Another thing you might want to do is use "too much". This glue "shrinks". I do have to trim excess off sometimes and that's where the micro flush cutter comes in so handy. It cuts absolutely flush so there isn't a ridge around the earring pad.

[UUendysCraftyCorner]

I checked out your shop. NICE stuff! Are you having problems with the items that are polymer clay? If so - try putting a sealer on the polymer.

[Former_Member]

Perhaps you're putting too much glue on? I've used Goop craft glue as well. It's a similar formula to E6000. You want the glue to have some give otherwise pieces will just pop off or break off. You may need to see if your glue is old as well.

[KamilleFreske]

Thanks guys!

I am actually trying to figure out how to glue glass cabochons to vinyl for my bindis, and I am also trying to figure out how to glue the cabochons to metal for earrings and pendant. Same with the clay!

I have figured out a big part of the problem. A lot of vintage cabochons have a foil backing, which makes the glass shiny and adds a lot of dimension. Well apparently E-6000 can melt/dissolve the foil backing on cabs and rhinestones. I noticed that when the items peel off my surfaces, they leave the foil on the surface. So the foil is adhering, then dissolving in reaction to the E-6000 I THINK. This is sooooo frustrating...

So I read that hypo-cement is absolutely the best for foiled rhinestones, as it isn't supposed to mess with the foil. Well it's not very durable. My rhinestones are popping out of the setting when I apply pretty subtle force.

Now I am worrying that perhaps I am being to hard on my items when I do these stress tests. It's really hard to mimic everyday wear.

I just want to know, all the wonderful jewelry makers out there that are using rhinestones and foiled cabochons in their creations, how in the world are they getting them to durably stick!!!

I also tested 2 part epoxy. It worked great for adhering the rhinestones to metal, but peeled right off of the vinyl.

So the search continues. I am going to experiment more. I am going to do a serious study and lay out the rhinestones, glue each one with a different adhesive, leave them alone for at least 48 hours and then pull. I will label all of this and keep records. I will pass on whatever I find out!

[fostersbeauties]

Fwiw, I use Crafter's Pick The Ultimate glue and have been really happy with it. It's not a problem with the foil back rhinestones and buttons that I use. And so far, it's the only glue that I have found to be reliably strong, and it dries clear. It's easier to use than 2-part epoxies and doesn't smell horrible like e-6000.

[KamilleFreske]

Thanks for the suggestion fostersbeauties, I am definitely going to try this! I also heard that glue is really non-toxic so that's definitely a plus.

I just completed setting up a huge test. 11 glues with 3 rhinestones per glue. I am going to wait about 2 days and then see how they stand up!

[fostersbeauties]

Kamille: I look forward to reading your conclusions after that test! Please be sure to share them here!

--Aviva

[KamilleFreske]

Hello everyone, just wanted let you all know that every single one of my tests failed miserably. They peeled right off the vinyl. Out of everything, the very best glue was (ironically) E-6000. The only problem was this, E-6000 dissolves the foil even on glass rhinestones. I don't care what anyone says, it keeps happening to me.

A lot of rhinestone tutorials recommend E-6000 and I don't understand why. Do not use it for this! I found that hypo-cement works great for applying rhinestones to metal though!

I bought two new glues to try, Araldite and Aleene's Glass and Bead adhesive. I am a little suspicious of Allene's because the label says it might damage plastic rhinstones, although mine are glass it still makes me nervous. I don't want them to cloud! Crossing my fingers! Apparently, Araldite's major advertising campaign was to glue a car to a billboard, so I am hoping it works!

[Former_Member]

From what I've read, E6000 isn't suitable for rhinestones, plus the fumes are carcinogenic. I did try it a few times, and was never happy with it.
I use 2 part epoxy, I get it at the hardware store, LePage speed set epoxy and it works fine. I glue mother of pearl to stainless steel earring posts for a store (not on my Etsy site), and the hold is good.
I did notice that one of my foil back cabochons had gone strange after about a year. I'm not sure why as two part epoxy is supposed to be okay for rhinestones. They were vintage and maybe the foiling was already coming apart. I'd love to hear from other people if they've had problems. Am I supposed to be using a better brand? This stuff is not fumey, it takes about 5 minutes to set and it cleans up with alcohol while wet (when dry, it does not remove). As long as the two parts are equal, you get a good strong set. Otherwise, things just fall apart.

I haven't tried this, but there are all sorts of glue applicators for people doing fine work. If you go to this site: www.leevalley.com and put the word "glue" into the search, there are micro applicators and syringes that carpenters use for gluing. Some of them should be suitable for jewelry. This is a woodworking tools site and they are careful about the products they stock.

[Former_Member]

The other thing is that sometimes, you just have to accept the limitations imposed by your materials. I think there are flat backed rhinestones called "hot fix" which were developed for glue. They probably aren't as nice as the foil backed vintage ones, but they might work.
It's a sad truth that we can imagine things that we can't actually accomplish. When I started making necklaces, I thought I'd be able to put all these pear and navette rhinestones together with chains and jump rings. I soon realized. most of the time, they would roll randomly so that half the time, they'd be facing backwards.
I have found a few connectors that are useful in stopping this, but mostly, I've had to accept the fact that many combinations will just produce an annoying necklace, however pretty it looks flat.
Maybe foil backed rhinestones *can't* be glued to vinyl.

[KittyBallistic]

I used to use E6000 and it seemed to work fine, but the smell was awful. Someone recommended Hypo-cement to me, and it works really well. I use it to glue glass cabs to metal, and have had no problems so far.

[willajunejewelry]

I use G-S Hypo Cement on some things, and it works really well. I've had the same experience as you with E 6000. Hypo has a really fine applicator too, so right from the tube it's easy to use.