Problems with glaze

[#1]

Hi, I've been experimenting with these and whereas the ones I have made with fabric have come out quite well, I'm having trouble with using paper images.

1. When printing the images, they are MUCH darker than they appear on the computer screen (it is a brand new ink cartridge in the printer right now). My images are the exact size needed for the pendant and my images are 300 ppi. The images are darker on normal paper and on photo paper. On photo paper, the images smudge during printing also. Is there any setting I can alter on the printer? Should I use card instead? Should I try another printer?

2. When I adhere the images to glass tiles using diamond glaze, they seem to be "streaky" and I can see marks, caused by the glaze, between the tile and the image. Is there any way I can solve this problem?

Thank you for any and all help you are able to offer! :)

[WickedLovelyShop]

I've been having problems with gluing the glass domes on my photos for the pendants. 2/3 of the time, it works out fine. For the other third of the time, there ends up being these shiny spots on parts of the edge of the photo/glass & then I'm able to peel it off. The middle is the part that sticks for the most part. It makes no sense, as others turned out fine. I've tried applying more pressure, less pressure, more glue, less glue, etc. Would anyone be able to help?

[AnnieHowes]

Here's the link to my free tutorial:
http://www.anniehowes.com/Glass-Photo-Pendant.html

There's also a video on that page.

SHOPPING LIST
Glamour Seal
Glamour Stickies (options, but recommended)
Glamour FX(TM) Glass Shapes
Pendant trays or other settings
Decorative Papers, or your own prints*(see note below)
Cutting Blade & Surface


Step 1
Prepare your glass by wiping with a lint free cloth. Be sure your hands are free of lotions which may prevent the Glamour Seal from adhering to the glass.

Step 2
Select the untrimmed decorative paper you’d like to use. Set aside. Take your clean glass tile, and apply a thin coat of Glamour Seal. Working quickly (Glamour Seal dries quickly), place the glass tile Glamour Seal side down on the patterned side of your decorative paper. You will be able to see through the glass to the patterned paper.

Step 4
Press the glass down onto the paper with your thumb using a table top or other flat surface underneath the paper. Use even, firm pressure. This removes any air bubbles in the Glamour Seal. If you see excess Glamour Seal ooze from the edge of the glass, just just wipe it off.

Allow the Glamour Seal to dry. This normally takes about 5 minutes, but longer is better in more humid weather. Dry them first glass-side-up for a couple of minutes, then flip them over so the paper is facing up and exposed to the air.

Step 5
Using a fresh, sharp X-acto blade (I use a #11 blade), put the glass tile paper-side down onto a cutting surface, such as a self-healing mat. Carefully trim the excess paper from the edges while pressing firmly down on the glass tile. I find if I use light pressure on my first cut and then slightly heavier pressure on the second cut I can get a nice clean cut. I also hold my blade at a slight angle (inward) so the cut is just inside the edge of the glass tile.

Should the paper on the glass need trimming, I find a pair of scissors works well to snip off any excess. Alternatively, you may prefer to use the X-acto blade using the same method indicated for the square tiles.

Scrape the edges carefully with the edge of the blade to remove any excess Glamour Seal.

Step 6
Apply a thin coat of Glamour Seal to the back side of the pendant. You want enough to come into contact with the pendant tray. Too much Glamour Seal will ooze up the sides and not enough will not keep the glass inside the setting. Using too much may also cause your paper to become cloudy. This will eventually clear up, but no point in using too much.
- OR -
Peel and stick one Glamour Stickies to the back of the decorated glass and press that into the pendant setting. DONE!

[407Creations]

For what it's worth, I have been making pendants for two years now. Several methods later, I do something a little different, you can read about it in any of the listings in my shop.

However, for those who still use glass pendants and trays or pendants and paper backing, here's my "fool proof" method, and they always come out very nice and clear, with no yellowing or streaking, and very few bubbles.

1. Print your image onto PHOTO paper from an inkjet printer.

2. Do not cut the image out yet. Place a piece of PACKING TAPE over both sides of the image.

3. Using diamond glaze or other brand of jewelry glue, turn your glass tile over and coat slowly and evenly with glue where the glass will meet the image.

4. Hold the glass tile down onto the image with good firm pressure for 30 seconds.

5. Let tile and image dry completely.

6. When dry, cut tile and image out of paper. Turn tile over to trim around the sides on the back

7. Using jewelry glue or E6000 expoxy glue for pendant trays, glue tile into the tray. Let dry. For paper backing, glue tile to a piece of paper backing, let dry, and trim around the edges.

I can't guarantee that everything will always go smoothly but if you do it this way, you SHOULD end up with a very clear and glossy image that will also photograph well.

[AnnieHowes]

I posted this in another team thread, and it may be helpful:

Hey everyone!

I want to thank all of you who've talked about Glamour Seal here. It warms my heart knowing it's helped you be successful in your endeavors.

There's a lot of misinformation on the internet with tons of tutorials on Pinterest on how to make glass photo jewelry. I see a lot of posts about failure, and it breaks my heart to hear from so many people about what the heck they did wrong, when it has nothing to do with their efforts, and everything to do with the products and tutorials they're using.

There are lots of products on the market that don't work, that work OK, that don't work well with other products, but there is one that works great.

Let's break it down:

Diamond Glaze, 3D Crystal Lacquer, Glamour Glaze, Glamour Glue: These are all water based. They'll work great on laser prints. They may cause your pendant trays to turn blue or green. I don't know why Diamond Glaze is so popular because it's one of the hardest products to use due to the amount of bubbles it seems to generate.

MicroGlaze: It. Does. Not. Work. Well, it works, but not for making glass photo pendants. Why? It's not an adhesive, and it's NOT going to protect your images from water based glazes. It's a wax, and a wax is not going to stick to water based glazes. Save your money. (There are other uses for it, so don't throw it out.)

Mod Podge: I don't know anyone who likes using this product for this specific purpose. It yields only "meh" results for making glass photo jewelry. Move along.

E6000:
First, it's toxic and is known to cause cancer.
Second, the solvent in E6000 will soak into paper, making it look blotchy, and will also eat the toner in laser prints.
Third, it's really smelly.

GLAMOUR SEAL: This is, by far, the best option. It's not water based, will not turn your pendants funky colors, will not smear your inkjet prints, and is not toxic. It will work best if you follow the tutorial that was written specifically for it, and not the tutorial you may have found on Pinterest. Why? Because I have spent the past 7 years working on making glass photo jewelry easy and affordable. I have tested papers and printers. I have tested products. I know what I'm doing and have taught thousands of people just like you to be successful.

You can find the tutorial on my website: www.anniehowes.com/Glass-Photo-Pendant.html

...and more on Glamour Seal: www.anniehowes.com/Glamour-Seal.html

Just as important as the adhesive you use, is the paper you use. You can't use textured paper. You can't use glossy paper with liquid adhesives. It's that simple. Accept that and move along. Get super smooth cardstock for your laser printer, or the inkjet paper recommended in the listing for Glamour Seal for your inkjet printer and do it right the first time.

For an expanded explanation on what I've written, I've put together a 10 page instant download guide that goes into deeper detail which is in my shop.
It might be the best $1 you ever spent if it means answering your relevant questions.

Please feel free to convo me anytime with questions. My business and products are built around teaching and helping people just like you to succeed. If you're not successful, I'm not successful. Together we can do this!

xo,
Annie

[barbartwork]

Hi,

I use Kodak Matte paper medium weight (35 pound) for inkjet printer. Once the ink has dried well, I coat with 3 thin coats of Modge Podge, letting it dry between coats. I then use Sun and Moon glaze, and put plenty on, then push down so all air bubbles are pushed out. I wipe off excess glaze that squeezes out with a Q-tip. I hold the tile down lightly with my finger until it hardens enough to stay put. After that dries, I coat the back with Sun and Moon glaze. I then add a bail or put in cabochon with the glaze. I don't ever have problems with smearing. I sometimes have trouble with small silver spots. My main concern is that a male friend was wearing one against his skin while working outside, and the tile separated from the paper. I have never had this problem, and I wear them often, but then I always have it outside my shirt. I know you can't wear them swimming or showering, but has anyone else had difficulties with perspiration ruining their tile jewelry?

[Former_Member]

Question for the ladies that place tape on the photo before gluing, has anyone seen/noticed if the tape yellows over time?

[AnnieHowes]

Why would you use tape when making glass pendants?

[Former_Member]

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[TheButtonBird]

According to this tutorial, the glittery sparkles that show up on your images are the result of pressing down when applying the glaze

http://dollchemy.com/showthread.php?246-Glass-Cabochon-Eyechips-for-Pullip-et-al

I'm going to test this but it does make sense. I get the most sparkles when I'm pushing down hard trying to remove air bubbles.

For those using inkjet printers, the most recommended product to avoid smearing is Judikins Microglaze

Also to avoid discoloration issues you are supposed to be coating the back of the cabochon/print with your glaze, resin, or enamel paint

[AnnieHowes]

I don't recommend using MicroGlaze.

MicroGlaze is a wax and wax repels water based glazes, which means MicroGlaze is not going to stick to your glaze very well.

Try Glamour Seal which is safe to use on inkjet prints. Here's a tutorial: http://www.anniehowes.com/Glass-Photo-Pendant.html

There's a video tutorial if you have the time to watch it.

[Former_Member]

Hi Chestnut,

The problem you describe with your images being darker than what you see on screen is due to your monitor and printer needing to be calibrated. This requires specialized calibration equipment, Windows and Mac include some basic calibration software, but it will probably not give the results you want. It depends on the monitor in question also. The less expensive the monitor the less likely you are to achieve satisfactory results. I suggest doing search for "monitor calibration." Spends some time reviewing the information. Then decide if this is something you want to tackle or not. You may decide staying with the professional printing service is the best option. However, I believe over the long run you will save money doing your own printing once your monitor and printer is calibrated.

Cheers,
Ken

[BestSTLHangaR]

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BestSTLHangaR?ref=seller-platform-mcnav

[PlatypusDream]

@BestSTLHangaR 

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