pattern grading

[VataRaven]

Is there a base chart used for the sizes?

Like, on the back on commercial patterns they have the size with the hip, bust, and waist. I wanted to know if there was a more detailed version.

I'm sure you have a standard start for the shoulders, back length, and all that other nice stuff. I would just like some sort of starting point with it.

[Former_Member]

I think what you are looking for are spec sheets. Spec sheets are much more specific than your average sizing chart.

My advice if you are going to grade a pattern yourself would be to figure out what size your target customer is. Make a sloper/block pattern based on that size, and then decide to grade up or down from there. I would caution that grading past 3 sizes you will lose the shape of the pattern so test your patterns in muslin before production so you don't end up dissapointed.

[SimonesRoseBoutique]

Hey Melissa!
If you're looking for industry standard sizing - the Center for Pattern Design website is a great resource. They have a few books with this detailed information which could be helpful.

http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/search?q=grading

[VataRaven]

Or...would I even have to grade?

I was thinking on it. Burda Style tells you how to grade patterns. So...that had me thinking. Could I just do the design in a standard size and people could just grade it themselves?

Or would that be an awful idea?

[Former_Member]

If I were to buy slopes to use in dressmaking, I wouldn't be comfortable with grading more than a size or two up.

[VataRaven]

How about a general sizing? Like S,M, L, and XL?

Those count as sizes?

I was thinking about doing custom sizing...not sure if that would work. Unless if people don't care if the scan looks pretty (like it would scan and be put together, but I wouldn't be able to put the time down to make them fully digital)

[Former_Member]

I'm not sure what you mean by "scan and put together". You mean you'd send scans for people to print on paper and tape together? Or are you making the traditional manilla-paper-esque slopes?

As a dressmaker, I would purchase slopes in standard sizes (4, 8, 12, 16) or sizes that are hard to find, like plus sizes.

[Former_Member]

I created an overall chart for sizing from a commercial pattern because I liked that it went in small increments. Of course it was also path of leaast resistance.

Also while working on grading once I came across this article

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all

It was very helpful I felt and made a lot of sense. Sometimes I think I confuse myself over thinking so this was a very helpful idiots guide.

As far as S, M, L, and XL I just selected sizing based off the chart from the commercial patterns and used two number sizes for one letter size. Again path of least resistance.

[Former_Member]

Hello all

I did my personal sizing chart by updating datas from standards measurements of womens in 1942 and standards measurements in ASTM 2004.
Using datas, I draw basics blocks and I modify them for creating again the vintage dress.
I repeat as much as needed, size by size from US2 until US32W and by my personnal measurement of course... :)

[fancybirddesigns]

Grading just seems like a huge hassle. I mean, if you have all the standard measurements for all the sizes, wouldn't it be easier to just draft each size rather than drafting a size and then grading it??

Sorry, I'm new to dressmaking and have only done it for toddlers, but grading is something I would LOVE to learn...but everything teaching it seems so overwhelmingly complicated in explanation.

[Former_Member]

Between 2 sizes and 2 others, measurements differences are not the same so, to have a good précision, it's necessary to draft all the sizes.
For example, I must draww all size because I'm working with no extensible fabrics, and the ease at the waist is very narrow for a real retro look.

[Former_Member]

https://www.etsy.com/listing/163418755/dress-sofiafiodor-jacket-suit-vintage

Fell free to contact me.
I developed my own size CHARTS based on LOTS of data.
But I can share with you the key public data that I found to be available.

[Former_Member]

Hello Melisa and everybody!

I'm pattern maker... I mean I studied as a career and i've worked for great companies of the fashion industry!, so I can tell you that it's much more complicated than that.
It's not possible to explain all about grading here in a conversation, but I can tell you the first rule of grading: from one size to the next it always increase 4 cm, wich means that if you have 80 cm of bust (for example), the next size will have 84 cm.
We always work with half patterns. The Front's half and the back's half, and that means that you have to increase 1 cm in that half pattern (1+1 and 1+1= 4 cm)....

I hope it will help you! but if you need some help with this, don't hesitate on ask me

http://svartalader.com/