From the Diabetes Forecast Magazine of ADA (May 2009) Hail to the Leaf
By Tracey Neithercott
Before you rip open a bag of whatever’s in the pantry, consider your options. Black, green, white, and oolong tea all come from the same bush, but the leaves’ country of origin, growing region, and level of processing result in different colors and tastes. Figuring out which is your favorite is half the fun, so read on to learn about the intricacies of the leaf.
TYPE: Black
Full bodied and deep in color, black tea gets its telltale caramel shade and rich flavor from a lengthy drying process. While the typical store brand is technically a black tea, it’s more like a big blend of many different types of teas. To really taste the nuances of tea, test a few single-origin varieties, such as Darjeeling, Ceylon, or Assam. Black teas vary in taste the same way wines do. And, as with wine, a tea’s subtle flavor is a compilation of many variables. “It’s where it’s grown and how it’s grown and how it’s processed,” says Lisa Boalt Richardson, a certified tea specialist with the Specialty Tea Institute. “I think the biggest difference is high-growing or low-growing. The real low-growing teas [like India’s Assam] can be very robust and very strong. The high-growing teas [like Darjeeling, also from India] are lighter in flavor.”
TYPE: Oolong
Tea leaves that are dried for less time become the not-quite-black tea known as oolong. Because oolongs fall between green and black tea in their level of processing, you can often find variation in their color and flavor. “A low-oxidation oolong is typically delicate, a bit grassy, quite sweet, and offers complex floral aromas and fruity tones, especially in the finish,” says Cynthia Gold, a tea sommelier and instructor with the Boston Park Plaza Hotel & Towers.
TYPE: Green
The light, clean flavor of green tea is a Japanese and Chinese favorite, but thanks to some good press on the tea’s health benefits, it’s gaining followers here, too. Because of minimal oxidation, green tea leaves make a mild, lightly tinted brew. “Sometimes it’s called earthy but more vegetal. They’re still light and can be very brisk and very wonderful,” says Richardson.
TYPE: White
The original meaning of white tea—the unprocessed bud of the tea leaf harvested from China’s Fujian province—has gotten a little hazy these days. While it’s generally accepted that white tea includes unprocessed tea buds from countries other than China, some experts say white tea may also contain unprocessed leaves. Either way, the non-oxidized tea results in an almost-clear liquid that’s the most mild type of tea. “They exhibit a beautiful finish,” says Gold. “Slightly sweet, vegetal, sometimes a touch floral, and often with a touch of pepper.”
TYPE: Herbal
Unlike black, oolong, green, and white teas, herbal teas—also called tisanes—don’t come from the Camellia sinensis plant. Instead, herbal teas can be made from flowers (like chamomile), plants (like the African bush rooibos), grass (like lemongrass), bark (like cinnamon), and fruits (like peaches). Tastes run the gamut from spicy to extra sweet. Though these teas aren’t the ones researchers use when studying the brew’s health benefits, they’re a great alternative to sugar-filled drinks like soda. Try a licorice or hibiscus brew to take the edge off your nagging sweet tooth.
Many tea purists swear by loose leaf, which they say is more fresh and flavorful than run-of-the-mill bagged tea. “Usually the tea bag is very fine tea—it’s called ‘tea dust,’ ” says Richardson. “Sometimes it’s tea that comes from all over. It can be old and not fresh.” Gold agrees. “You will never find the world’s finest teas in a tea bag, but you can find a better tea-bag tea these days than you have ever been able to before,” she says. Another option: tea sachets that hold whole-leaf teas. Other experts, however, say tea bags can brew as good a cup as loose leaves. Keep both loose and bagged tea in an airtight container away from light, odors, and moisture.
When it comes to picking a variety you’ll enjoy, both Richardson and Gold echo the same motto: Have fun. The process of finding a tea that you love is “parallel in so many ways to enjoying and studying wines, but unlike wine, tea really has no downside,” Gold says. “No other beverage is both relaxing and stimulating at the same time and offers us such diverse experiences.”
