Glass dome jewelry - air bubbles! Help!

[#1]

I am searching the internet like crazy for tips on using diamond glaze to make glass dome pendants and am turning desperate already.

I've been making glass dome pendants for a while and until now I haven't figured out how to avoid the air bubbles that forms AFTER the piece is dry - or at least I think those are air bubbles... there are spots, rather big, that reflects light in a silvery way.

I've tried with thicker paper, thinner paper, I've tried coating the image with glue first, I've tried gluing the picture to the setting base first, then adding the glaze and dome, and I've tried gluing the dome to the picture first and then, gluing it to the setting base (which works best but still not perfect).
It may look perfect at first, but after one day or two, these silver bubbles start to appear and ruin the image. Then I have to unmake the pendant, putting it in the water to rub off the image from the dome and reuse it...

I was using a water based jewelry glue to glue the pictures to the glass domes, but that was not too great; then I purchased Diamond Glaze cause I've heard it's the best for this kind of craft. Even so, I'm getting these bubbles that ruin the images... I have no idea why they form! I see so many shops in etsy selling beautiful glass dome jewelry, and I keep trying to guess what's their secret?

I live in Brazil and I don't have too much access to different materials since this kind of stuff simply doesn't exist here, I have to import all my glass domes and setting bases. It takes too much time and money, but I have a shop and the glass pendants are a huge success, but it's taking too much time and stressing me out D= Help!

(sorry for the long message and bad english!)

[EarthsOpulence]

Thanks for sharing! I have some oval bases from Vintaj and the glass and sealers above look perfect.

[Former_Member]

I've read all these comments and wanted to say that I've used E-6000 on my cabs and to adhere to pendant. In the past this has worked fine but later pieces got tons of air bubbles.
I do glue the cabs to the paper first and let dry overnight. I was having so many problems with this that I decided to use lillyD's glaze and it seemed wonderful (at first). Once I mounted them to the pendant with the same stuff (as she showed in her video) after a day or 2 there were dark spots on the pics.
Not happy.
So I went back to E-6000 and they seemed fine but now my aunt said the one I made her for Xmas had spots on them that weren't there before.
This is very frustrating because I look at pendants I made last summer and they are perfect.
Please help

[Former_Member]

i am also having similar issues to those mentioned above. I tried the microglaze first (but perhaps did not buff it enough) and then the diamond glaze to glue the cabochon to the picture. I made sure no bubbles. but when it dried - the silvery things - that I guess ARE air bubbles.

I soaked the lot in "goof off" and am going to try again - but advice in this thread is useful

[Former_Member]

Hi guys,
Thank you for all the imput, I wish someone here had the miracle response I'm after. I've been struggling with air bubbles and "silvery streaks" and feel quite deflated. I'm trying various techniques and various glues with no perfect results. Has anyone tried "baking" the cabs to dry out any humidity since this seems to have an impact on the appearance of air bubbles?

[DearestMine]

First of all, make sure your image isn't from an inkjet printer...that will cause all sorts of problems and reactions with glues and sealers. I usually have all of my prints for my photo jewelry printed by a professional online lab using metallic or high gloss professional paper.

I use Mona Lisa's Omni Gel to adhere my photo prints to my brass lockets and metal bezels. Once dry, I then use a 2 part epoxy resin (Rio Grande's doming resin) and apply a couple drops on top of the photo and then place my glass dome on top. I push down on it to let the tiny bubbles escape on the sides and within 24 hours, it's completely dry and beautiful! Hope that helps!

[GKJdesigns]

I have a lapidary perspective but this my be helpful. I cut opals and opal doublets. An opal doublet is a layer of opal that has been cemented to a backing mineral for strength and/or appearance. In my case I use 330 epoxy and black jade as the backing.

When attaching the opal to the jade I have to be very careful to avoid air bubbles in the epoxy. Most important is to mix the epoxy carefully, trying to avoid adding air by stirring slowly and not whipping it. After mixing I apply some epoxy to both surfaces. Then I press the opal onto the jade with circular movement to work any bubbles and extra epoxy out to the edges (similar to what Lori posted above me). With care I almost never have visible bubbles. And believe me, bubbles on a black background are easy to see.

[Former_Member]

Thank you Lori, I may try your glue instead then, This is so frustrating because the cabs look perfect for a few days until the bubbles start appearing!!!

[ArtofCarolineJamhour]

Hi! Since now and then someone sends me a message asking me exactly what I've done to fix the problem, I'll just leave my last reply here:

I cut the paper in the cameo's format previously (I see people doing it after gluing the cab but it doesn't work for me), glue the cab on it using diamond glaze, let it dry. Then I seal the back of the picture using another water-based jewelry glue that comes with a nail-polish like brush (it's a brazilian brand so I can't specify... it's a simple white jewelry glue), let it dry. Then I glue this to the metal base using a bit of super glue gel (super bonder - I don't know if you have that brand there?). I used to use epoxy glue and had good results as well, I'm just using superglue now because I don't have the trouble of having to mix it like epoxy.
I found that the mistake was using another water-based glue to glue the cab to the base, that made the diamond glaze melt and form the silver bits. Now when I follow this procedure, I don't have this problem anymore - if a silver bit is to form, I see it right away when I glue the glass cab on the picture using diamond glaze, because of a trapped bubble or something, and can undo it right away without having to make all the way to gluing it to the base for only then having to undo it. And it's much more rarer to happen.

Oh - one more thing, I use a home printer, and use normal white paper (not photograph or shining ones), only with a higher gramature (thicker). Using thinner paper may help to cause the bubbles in my experience.

I hope it helps and I'm sorry if I sound too confusing, my english is not so good when I try to explain things like this haha!

[Mega3dStlHub]

I have found that the silvery spots are not air bubbles. If you are using E6000 glue to glue them to the base it reacts with the metal and the pendant. The good news is it does go away. It takes a while like a week or so. So if you have a order you will have to remake it probably, but it won't be a complete waste.

Tip 1 - Make sure you pendant is completely dry before you are gluing it to the metal base. If they are the least little bit wet it encourages the reaction. 24 hours it not to long and with some papers I have found even 48 hours is better.

Tip 2 - Don't glob the glue in the center of the tray. Spread a light layer around the outside edge E6000 has a tendency to continue to ooz out of the tube after you squeeze it. Learn to work with that and put the lid on quickly to stop the oozing or you are going to waste a lot of glue.

Tip 3 - If the room you are working in is to cold it will cause problems get a heater to keep it worm if you need to . The room I work in is the coldest room in my house. When I moved back there I instantly started having problems. Don't keep it hot but consistent with the rest of your house.

Tip 4 - Stick the pendant to the image before putting it on the metal base. After sticking it together with the diamond glaze put a heavy book over it til it dries. That will prevent the paper from flexing and causing air bubbles.

That is the best I have.

[fireflygirl777]

Anyone want to add to this?

[wookiedesigns]

So to clarify everything I've read in these post. I use comic books and other printed materials (nothing I've printed myself), I put mod podge on both sides of the image then use Diamond Glaze to attach it to the glass dome. I let it dry usually with a weight on top of it. After it is dry I attach it to the bezel tray with E6000. I am using both bronze and silver trays and only seem to have issues with the bronze trays. The silver lines and tiny bubbles usually don't appear until after I have glued it down and usually a couple days after the piece if finished. This is a recent problem for me. The items I've made in the past did not have this issue. It's making me nuts! I have to keep remaking things until I get lucky and it stays clear. So is the problem then the bezel trays needing to be coated in something before the glue is used? Is the problem the mod podge (without it the comic image goes clear and unusable). Is it operator error? I'm so frustrated.

[Former_Member]

I am so glad to see i'm not the only one having this issue! I started making pendants in early December and for a while (when I was completely inexperienced) they all turned out perfect. I get the majority of my supplies including my glaze from Sun and Moon Craft Kits. Since I started I've been using their glaze to first secure the glass to the image, followed by cutting off any excess paper around the glass once the glaze is dried (18-24 hours later), and lastly I use E6000 to glue the dome into the tray. I also "seal" all of my trays with the glaze as soon as I receive them so they've had days to dry. This has worked perfectly for me and I still have the entire first batch or two of pendants that I made and they turned out and have remained crystal clear to this day. Then all of a sudden I created a batch about 2 months ago and again, every single one of them turned out crystal clear. I let them dry for a day minimum, some of them sat for a couple days. I glued them into the trays and still they were crystal clear. I even sat them all on a portable display (a quick DIY put together) and took them places with me and sold a few. I brought them back home, sat them up on my desk and noticed a couple days later a couple of them had mysteriously developed either a few silver speckles or worse, I had two that ended up with one giant silvery patch covering almost the entire image. I was completely puzzled because all I could think was, how and why? They were perfect and i'd made them over a week ago, and they remained perfect until now? I wondered if it had anything to do with any type of moisture. It started right around the time spring was beginning around here and we started getting a lot of rain and humidity. So thus far I've encountered multiple scenarios -

I have in fact faced the issues of air bubbles when attaching the glass to the image and I thought maybe that was it, but I also learned how to recognize when they were happening and how to combat them so it's no longer really an issue.

I have also faced an issue of air happening and creating silver splotches when I go to cut around the glass and the paper seems to pull away from the glass slightly in certain areas around the edges (not letting it dry quite long enough or not securing 100% when gluing the glass to the image is what I've gathered in this case)

My more frequent and far more frustrating issue lately has been when I described above. When the glass comes out perfect and the image is crystal clear, so once dried I glue it to the tray and then anywhere from an hour to even a week later I get speckles, splotches or giant patches of reflective silver.

I am really wonder now after reading everything if my issues are coming from a few factors revolving around drying time and humidity/moisture as it's been extra humid here lately and we've had a ton of raid as opposed to flat out dry cold winter air when I started these. I am going to continue using my sun and moon glaze and E6000 since it's worked so well for me so far, but I am going to try experimenting with longer drying times and keeping them away from moisture as much as possible. I am also going to try what Elizabeth said and start spreading the glue a bit more instead of dropping it in the center.

Has anyone else found the fix to their issue?

[AnnieHowes]

Hey everyone!

I want to thank all of you who've talked about Glamour Seal here. It warms my heart knowing it's helped you be successful in your endeavors.

There's a lot of misinformation on the internet with tons of tutorials on Pinterest on how to make glass photo jewelry. I see a lot of posts about failure, and it breaks my heart to hear from so many people about what the heck they did wrong, when it has nothing to do with their efforts, and everything to do with the products and tutorials they're using.

There are lots of products on the market that don't work, that work OK, that don't work well with other products, but there is one that works great.

Let's break it down:

Diamond Glaze, 3D Crystal Lacquer, Glamour Glaze, Glamour Glue: These are all water based. They'll work great on laser prints. They may cause your pendant trays to turn blue or green. I don't know why Diamond Glaze is so popular because it's one of the hardest products to use due to the amount of bubbles it seems to generate.

MicroGlaze: It. Does. Not. Work. Well, it works, but not for making glass photo pendants. Why? It's not an adhesive, and it's NOT going to protect your images from water based glazes. It's a wax, and a wax is not going to stick to water based glazes. Save your money. (There are other uses for it, so don't throw it out.)

Mod Podge: I don't know anyone who likes using this product for this specific purpose. It yields only "meh" results for making glass photo jewelry. Move along.

E6000:
First, it's toxic and is known to cause cancer.
Second, the solvent in E6000 will soak into paper, making it look blotchy, and will also eat the toner in laser prints.
Third, it's really smelly.

GLAMOUR SEAL: This is, by far, the best option. It's not water based, will not turn your pendants funky colors, will not smear your inkjet prints, and is not toxic. It will work best if you follow the tutorial that was written specifically for it, and not the tutorial you may have found on Pinterest. Why? Because I have spent the past 7 years working on making glass photo jewelry easy and affordable. I have tested papers and printers. I have tested products. I know what I'm doing and have taught thousands of people just like you to be successful.

You can find the tutorial on my website: http://www.anniehowes.com/Glass-Photo-Pendant.html

...and more on Glamour Seal: http://www.anniehowes.com/Glamour-Seal.html

Just as important as the adhesive you use, is the paper you use. You can't use textured paper. You can't use glossy paper with liquid adhesives. It's that simple. Accept that and move along. Get super smooth cardstock for your laser printer, or the inkjet paper recommended in the listing for Glamour Seal for your inkjet printer and do it right the first time.

For an expanded explanation on what I've written, I've put together a 10 page instant download guide that goes into deeper detail:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/216668694/the-secret-to-making-glass-photo-jewelry It might be the best $1 you ever spent if it means answering your relevant questions.

Please feel free to convo me anytime with questions. My business and products are built around teaching and helping people just like you to succeed. If you're not successful, I'm not successful. Together we can do this!

xo,
Annie

[fireflygirl777]

I bought it ~ the download from Annie Howes. Now off to try to get the right paper, etc....Will report back.

[fireflygirl777]

The info is great!

I went to Staples, Office Max, Best Buy and Walmart and NONE of them had the paper recommended for inkjet and could not order it. (?) I did get copies of the one precious image I needed (in multiples) from the men behind the counter. I asked for a smooth cardstock as of course they did not have the recommended paper for lasers. Staples said theirs was not laser but toner. Office Max said toner copies ARE laser.

I took my two sheets of copies of the precious image and contacted Annie Howes asking WHERE on earth to get that paper so I could do it at home. She sent a link to it on Amazon. I purchased it for later.

Then I asked her what is her favorite way of applying the sealer to the glass. She said she applies it with her finger (I would not have thought of that), spreads it around..

I did that, then placed the piece in my book press to press down and thereby squelch any air bubbles.

Awhile later I took it out to dry further. It looks PERFECT!

I will let it dry the rest of today and put it in the tray tomorrow.

Thanks to Annie, I think I did it!!

[fireflygirl777]

Here is the link for the paper to use with inkjet printers:
http://www.amazon.com/Epson-Premium-Presentation-8-5x11-S041341/dp/B00004Z613/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_y

[theboilershopCNC]

I am venturing into this area so this is all good info to read. I am in the process of making a vac chamber to extract the bubble problem.

I find the stainless steel inserts I put in my castings do trap air, so I slide these into the resin on an angle, the resin forces any bubbles to the surface.

I still haven't come up with an acceptable finish but am getting closer, this info is good, thank you all.

[Former_Member]

I've grappled with all the issues described here.Thankfully, I now have a process that is bubble and streak free. I use Omnigel to adhere my original artwork to a glass cabochon. You can see some of my pieces here: http://watsonhollow.etsy.com.

I've written up my entire process as a Google plus post, if anyone is interested:
https://plus.google.com/112621137941591412639/posts/5GUzeEWtUEB

[Former_Member]

Hi everyone. I know this feed has been going on some time now but was hoping if anyone can give some advice on this technique...

I am trying to not glue directly to paper but directly from the glass to the cabochon and not have air pockets appear. I have vinyl lettering/stickers if you will that I am able to place directly on to the setting directly and they stick. I am then able to just glue the glass directly on to the setting without having to place glue on to paper first so the glass is literally sitting directly on the setting with a small letter in between. Everything appeared to work fine but the next day I too seemed to have a bluish tint/air pockets in between the glass and setting. I placed just enough glue on the back of the glass and placed it directly down on the setting and just lightly pressed so the glue would not come out from underneath. I figured this appeared to work until the next day. Any tips on how to work this process when trying to glue the glass directly down with nothing in between??

[frighten]

What's worked best for me is not cutting the shape out first, but gluing the cabochon onto the print out sheet (Epson premium presentation paper) and then cutting it out after the glue is dry. I use enough glue (use Annie's Glamour Seal btw) so that when I press down firmly a couple of times, the glue comes out all sides, creating a seal. I give it a good 12 hours to dry and then when it's completely dry, I cut around the cabochon, remove it from the sheet, and then trim the excess paper and dried glue with cuticle scissors and glue to the tray. I think what I'm doing is a combination of some of the advice given in this thread and another one I read. All of my pendants had those silver spots but this technique seems to have stopped that or at least minimized it greatly.

[Former_Member]

I had been struggling with these problems as well but I just decided to try something different. I ran my pictures through a laminator and then attached each one to the glass piece with E6000. Then I attach the glass with the picture (not dry yet) to the necklace base and put them between a clamp. This seals the photo off from the glue seeping through it and the clamp creates a seal forcing all excess glue and air from the necklace. I know it's a bit more involved than just mod podge and glue but I'm really happy with the results so far.

[Former_Member]

I also tried putting 360 clear duct tape over the image I wanted to use on both sides and that worked perfectly as well.