Jewelry Making Thread

[Former_Member]

Jewelry Making Thread

[Former_Member]

Some info on gems and Jewelry:
What is 14k Gold?

14k gold is 58% pure gold and 42% alloy

18K gold is 75% gold and 25% alloy

22K gold is 91.7% gold and 8.3% alloy

10 K gold is 41% gold and 59% alloy

For yellow gold the alloy is silver and copper

For rose gold the alloy is mostly copper

For white gold it is nickel and zinc

Purple Gold is alloyed with aluminum

Antique white gold was mostly silver alloy(greenish tint)

~~~~~

Silver is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are stone weights?

Gemstones are weighed in carats or grams or kilos (1000 grams). There are 5 carats to a gram and 100 points to a carat. Half Carat= 50points



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stone Hardness

Moh's Scale of 1-10

Diamond -10

Ruby, Sapphire - 9

Topaz - 8

Garnet, Emerald, Aquamarine - 7.75

Amethyst - 7

Peridot - 6.6

Opal and Moonstone- 6

Tourquoise and Lapis - 5

Gypsum and Alabaster- 1



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GIA Clarity Grading Scale

FL- Flawless - no visible inclusions under a 10x power loupe

IF- Internally Flawless- no inclusions and only insignificant surface blemishes

VVS1, VVS2- Very,very slight inclusions under 10x

VS1, VS2- Minor inclusions under 10x loupe

SI1, SI2 - Noticable inclusions that are easy or very easy to see under 10x but eye clean

I1, I2, I3- included grades- I3 being very bad noticable to the unaided eye



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Former_Member]

GIA Clarity Grading Scale

FL- Flawless - no visible inclusions under a 10x power loupe

IF- Internally Flawless- no inclusions and only insignificant surface blemishes

VVS1, VVS2- Very,very slight inclusions under 10x

VS1, VS2- Minor inclusions under 10x loupe

SI1, SI2 - Noticable inclusions that are easy or very easy to see under 10x but eye clean

I1, I2, I3- included grades- I3 being very bad noticable to the unaided eye



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GIA Color Grades

Colorless- D E F

Near Colorless -G H I J

Faint Yellow - K L M N

Very Light Yellow - O->R

Light Yellow to Fancy Yellow S-> Z



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Size to weights in Diamonds for idea cut round brilliants

2.5mm = 5pts or 1/20 ct

4.2mm= 25pts or 1/4 ct

5mm= 50pts or 1/2 ct

6.2mm= 100 pts or 1ct




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Melting Points of Various Metals

pewter- 425*

Sterling Silver - 1640*

Platinum - 3223*

14k Yellow - 1615*

14k White - 1825*

24k Pure Gold - 1945*

~~~~~

Boiling points of Various metals

Platinum - 8186*

24k gold - 4914*

[Former_Member]

In case any is interested, I am a casting Jeweler for more years than i can mention :-) Wax Design work and I also do Vulcunizing Ruber Molds. I can help with questions in most of these areas, Not so much on Bench Working unless it is very basic. Hopefully some Bench workers are here to help in all these and those other areas. I also do stone cutting but mostly Cabochons on a diamond genie. Also Tumbling processes for Jewelry, Vacuum investment prep and centrifical Casting. I check in at least daily here.

[EyemaginationRSB]

Jerry??? do you do cutom cutting?? I have a bunch of rough but don't cut anymore (lost fine motor skills). I have boxes of opal and a bunch of tiger iron fron australlia I want done

[Former_Member]

I loved "lost wax" method of casting and just recently sold my kiln and centrifuge. There's just not enough space in my shop for all the tools, saws, Genie's and materials that I desire.

@Robin, I'm sure Jerry has his own break-down of preparing raw stone for customer's. But generally, its a $1.00 a slab cut. Tumbling splits out by half the load and cutting, polishing and completion of cabs is half.

Example: Jerry works up your opal...(triplets or cabs) he yields seven whole units of finished work. HE gets the choice (first pick) of end product for his work and you get the last units for yourself.

Generally, specking that's how its done through the rock trade.
Mickey

[Former_Member]

Thanks Guys, Actually I have too say i can't do much cutting now. If any can help her please do. I am in the process of getting a couple new diamond wheels for my genie, maybe at that point i can get a few stones cut.

So please if any can help robin, let her know. I would also note that there are a lot of fantastic cutters here on this team... much better than I. :-)

[Untwistedsister]

I have a question...... I'm a beginning silversmith and want a bench polisher. I'm thinking I want one that has a variable speed and not too big to polish my silver pieces. I think I should get a hooded one so I don't get the polishing dust everywhere too. Any recommendations? I looked at the Foredom but are they too small to be useful?

[SassyDefined]

so 24K gold is pure gold? and if that is the case, than it would also be fairly soft I would assume. Would it still be practical to use in jewelry?

[Former_Member]

Hi Terri, maybe try either riogrande.com or kingsleynorth.com as they have polishing machines in various prices. I think they are all pretty good. some of the better ones have baldor motors.. a better motor. but then unless you use it constantly it doesnt really matter i guess. :-) i have an older machine.. pretty standard double ended for polishing. almost all have a fan that removes the polishing dust. oh mine is not a variable speed but certainly works great. the bigger buff you use the faster the speed on the piece.

Hey Wendy :-) 24k is pretty soft and super expensive at 1600 an ounce. they do like it a lot in the middle east and India for jewelry though.

[Untwistedsister]

Thanks, Jerry. I may search around for a used one. Is there a particular buff I should get for silver? Sometimes I like to finish buff softer stones with zam or Fabuluster.

[Former_Member]

Hi Terri, i used to use zam on some stones also. i actually used a wide 8 in felt wheel but i think you should ask some others here too. good luck.

i like a slightly tighter stiched for white Diamond polish, then somethinf very soft for rouge... but that is just me and of course i tumble with stainless shot after that so its a little weird.. lol.

[Former_Member]

i don't know how it does it but the stainless shot seems to prevent the silver from tarnishing for a long time?

[ArtandArtisan]

Maybe because tumbling work hardens the metal?

[Former_Member]

It must be Jane. not sure :-)

[Lovethebugs]

Hi Terri,
I have been silversmithing for a little over a year and I am not a master by any means. Me and Shannon have been blessed with good finds a long the way. We aren't rich and we add equipment as we can. In Craigslist we came across a variable speed polishing system from Hi-Tech Diamond. We got a great deal on it and the lady also had a Lot-O-Tumbler, and I love that too. We bought them for $50.00 each and she had barely used them at all. Plus the tumbler was already mounted on the big block and was ready to go. We are blessed I tell you! :)

I would recommend a variable speed if you have the money for it. Look for a used one maybe. Setting it on low speed allows me to more safely polish chain, its a dangerous thing and i don't really recommend polishing chain on a wheel :)

Also its easier to polish the inside of rings on a lower speed. If you are on a budget, get a cheap single speed to start with. You don't have to have a Baldor, anyone will do for now. Don't spend $500.00 on a polishing motor when all its really doing is going around and round.

As for buffs, I find myself using a 5" flannel buff the most. I know there are tons of buffs you can get and they all serve a purpose, but I love my flannel buff. I use Zam for 100% of my wheel polishing, it just works great. I used to use Tripoli and change wheels out and go through all that, but I don't anymore. Yes there is value in doing it that way, but I pre-polish at the bench and don't need to use tripoli.

I tumble almost every single piece and use Rio Sunsheen burnishing compound, it work hardens the metal and puts an awesome shine on it. Usually I also polish on the wheel, its really fun for me. :)

When my polishing motor breaks down and I am sure it will, I will buy a cheap $50.00 one until I am making enough money to warrant a $500.00 motor, they honestly achieve the same result.

Yes a hood over and around the wheel is a good idea. It can save your face and eyes and if you can hook a vacuum up to it, you wont be breathing in zam. I hope this helps, I am so excited for you, its such a fun and beautiful art! If I can help you in anyway please convo me, I am totally here for you. Tommy

[Former_Member]

Hi jerry. I'm a casting jeweler also:) you have really nice things in your shop. Do you cast with stones, or do you set them afterwards? Also I saw you use nickel or zinc as alloy in white gold. I have always worked with a palladium alloy.

[Former_Member]

Thanks, not doing any gold right now- all silver, i sent the gold all to the refiner :-) I do a mix, some cast in place (corundum) most not. I like your stock. very nice. Jerry

[Lovethebugs]

I have a question about channel setting a ring from scratch. I have seen videos on it and they did help a lot. I didnt have ring shank wire big enough to cut a channel from so I used 2 pieces of square sterling silver wire.

I soldered them together and formed the ring. Then using various bits I carved out the channel, it was quite fun :) It took about 2 weeks for me to make this ring as I would pick up and set it down for a few days.

Here is where my question comes in. I know you have to undercut the insides of the channel and honestly, I chunked it out so bad at first. Lets just say the stone sizes that I used in there kept getting bigger. :) Meaning I started out with smaller stones in mind but do to poor undercutting I had to resurface the inside of the channel and make them bigger.

Finally I slowed down and was able to use the 90 degree heart bur to somewhat consistently make an undercut. Somehow amazingly the tables of the stones are pretty much flat, its a miracle really. One stone chipped during the process but I left it in there anyway. I was so proud of myself for getting where I did, I didn't want to make it worse. I used my foredom hammer handpiece to push the edge in and over the stones. I haven't mastered that mini jackhammer yet and I was surprised that it worked.

Here are my questions and thank you so much for putting up with me like you guys do :)

1.) Is there a math formula for figuring out where exactly to drill your holes for the stones? Yes the stones are 3MM and if I was making a straight bar, 3MM holes would work, but the ring is rounded and the holes weren't right. As with the curvature 3MM isnt actually where the culets sit.

2.) Should I use the smallest hart bur possible to cut the seats in the side walls? Does that whole thing get easier? Because that bit was walking all over the place and by no means did I cut a perfect line. I used the smallest one I could because the head of the hart bur fully bit into the side wall and the shank of the bit acted as a stop so I didnt cut all the way through. I hope I am making sense, I tend to confuse things on accident.

3.) Lastly, If I did want to replace a stone in a channel set ring, how do you do that?

Thank you so much, here is a link to some pictures of it. I havent finished or polished it yet. I can handle criticism and feedback, I really want to learn how to do this correctly. Thank you so much for your time! Tommy

http://s1302.beta.photobucket.com/user/Lovethebugs/library/Channel%20Set%20Ring?

The photos are blurry of course lol, I will take better ones tonight.

[Untwistedsister]

Those are gorgeous. I now have skill envy. I'm going to William Holland school for 2 weeks of Silversmithing classes in July. I can't wait!! It's like sleepover camp for adults.

[ArtandArtisan]

Terri, I went to Holland last year to learn to cut opals. I would like to go again this year. It is wonderful to be around so many creative people who share pretty much the same interests.

[Lovethebugs]

Terri,
You are awesome, thank you so much. That school will be amazing, I really want to take classes too. There is a school in Portland for jewelers, I would love to attend it. I think its about 6K to do it, but its less expensive than the GIA one. Any formal training would greatly benefit me.

Your sailors knot bracelet is insanely awesome. You have incredible items and honesty I have skill envy of you. I couldnt make any of your items. I cant believe how perfectly spaced all of you pieces are. Your links, patterns - all of it are in perfect proportion.

For example this piece is just incredible.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/118886089/sterling-silver-and-14k-gold-filled-wire?

[Untwistedsister]

Now I'm blushing. William Holland is in the north georgia mountains and is incredibly inexpensive!
I got a few little freebie pieces of larimar fom someone and cut a ring cab. Now I'm working on a bezel setting for it. Keeping it really simple. I have a propane torch from the hardware store and a butane torch. I used the propane torch to solder the bezel to the backing. I used hard paste solder and I think I either overheat or under heat or put the flame on the solder too soon. I just seem to have a hard time getting a feel for it.

[Untwistedsister]

@Jane - who did you take Opals with? Joe? Or Sarah Lee?

[Lovethebugs]

I use that same torch, if its the one that just a brass head with a knob and it screws directly onto the disposable propane tank. I actually really love that torch, its only 12.00 and comes with a bottle :)

If you are soldering bezel wire onto a sheet, I had a problem when I had a big piece of sheet and tried to solder a little bezel wire on it. You have to make sure and circle the outside of the entire piece, circle it on the outside edges of the sheet to make sure the entire piece is heated evenly, before you get onto the bezel. Its hard to put direct flame on the bezel, I usually use fine silver for the bezel as its easier to form around the stones. Using paste solder is a task all on its own for me. I have some and use it sometimes. I usually order wire solder and hammer it flat then cut little pieces or "pallions" and place that inside the bezel wire before I heat.

Also if its taking to long for things to flow and get going, like over 30 seconds, then the torch may not be turned up enough. You should be able to get the solder to flow without having to hold the torch directly on the solder for a long time. Post a picture when you are done, I cant wait to see it!