Painting polymer clay

[Former_Member]

Help! I have tried it, but realized that I knew nothing about it! I used acrylic paint, but I don't know how thick it must be, or if it should be watered down. Also, it turned into a sticky mess and rubbed off, on several things that I tried it on. Are there any brands that are better than others? And what prep do you do on your polymer clay before painting?

Thanks!

[Former_Member]

I've just been doing little touch ups here and there on my clay, but I baked my things, let them cool, and then painted their eyes with regular old acrylic paint. It seemed to work fine... I don't know why that happened to you...

[linsart]

Hello, just my 2 cents. I use acrylic paints, sometimes two thin coats are better than one thick coat. First you paint the clay and then you paint the paint. Let dry very well in between coats. I just add a little water to my brush, not to the paint, and it seems to work better. Hope this helps you.
Good sales to you !
Linda
linsart

[Former_Member]

Hi! I usually use craftsmart paints to paint my clay, I usually put on several thin layers until I get just the right color. For rafts art, however, some colors are not as pigmented as others, so for some you can put 2 coats and be done with it, but for others you will have to put as many as 6 coats. I only paint my lay, I never buy colors, since it's cheaper, and you also don't see any dust or fingerprints in the end(:

[Former_Member]

Thanks for the help. Also, is it better to paint before or after baking? I've heard mixed reviews for each!

[Former_Member]

I've watched my cousin bake an action figure they sculpted parts onto with polymer clay, painted it, and then baked it. It didn't come out well. The paint got really weird and kinda bubbly.

[Former_Member]

Hi! I use acrylic paint, two or three thin layers are better than one thik layer. If the paint is old, it would be necessary water it down. When the paint is dry, I use one or two layers of a top coat clear varnish. Before paint the clay, it must be cleaned with alchol in order to remove the oily residues on the surface.

[Former_Member]

Its always better to paint the clay after you bake, the color can change and things like that are bound to happen when you paint the clay befor you bake(:

[Former_Member]

Thanks everyone!

[Former_Member]

Definitely paint AFTER baking.

[PattysPrettyThings]

I have baked, then painted, and then baked again (usually so I could put a coat of Kato clear on it). Like the owls in my avatar - that's what I did with them!

[Former_Member]

I tried baking, then painting, then baking for another 5 minutes. The colour got sort of baked in to the clay. I then rubbed the rest of the paint off. It was kind of like a tattoo. Have a look - http://www.etsy.com/listing/81365696/ivory-white-cat-with-pink-heart-polymer

[Former_Member]

That is weird! It's like the clay absorbed it or something!

[Former_Member]

That's what I thought! Although I like it! It might just be the paints I used.

[Former_Member]

Hey,

Acrylic paint after baking then seal with floor polish!

[Former_Member]

Floor polish? What does that do?

[Former_Member]

Hi, I use acrylic paints all the time, before curing. I use Liquitex Heavy Body Acrylics in the tubes. I put on several thin coats. I am not painting designs, though, just using the paint as part of my design. I use it with alcohol inks and mica powders too and have never had any problems. After the item is cured, I seal it with kato liquid polymer clay.

[Former_Member]

I use Golden or Liquitex acrylics, liquid or tube...very thin layers, as others have mentioned above. . I thin, if necessary with Winsor-Newton Flow ...there are other brands. Water is fine too, but flow helps keep color vibrancy.
ALSO, once done, I cure at 200 degrees for 20 min or so. A thin layer of acrylic floor polish also helps protect surface, but I have found that you can hand buff, even lightly sand to bring up highlights (600 or higher grit) paper without problems. I cure again if using floor polish... 200 degrees 15 min.

[Former_Member]

I was going to ask about sand paper grit! Thanks for that.

[Former_Member]

I'll just chime in to add a suggestion that hasn't been made yet...
Have you considered using PearlEx waxes or Mica powders?
I use apply both mediums as if they are paint. The Mica powders can be mixed with clear varnish and applied in a liquid form... You can mix up colours for some stunning results.

PearlEx waxes are a bit less like paint... I usually apply with my fingers and then buff away the colour as much as I like, going back and reapplying to highlight certain parts.

Just some food for thought :)

[Former_Member]

PS: I've used both before AND after baking (just to experiment). They came out fine.

[Former_Member]

I always finish my painted pieces with several coats of clear glaze, otherwise the acrylic will come off. Also, using un-watered down paint and a stiff brush works great to make patinas. I jab the brush into the crevaces and wipe away the excess with a slightly damp paper towel.

[Former_Member]

I went throw hell trying to fine the right paint. I finally went to a hobby store and found some acrylic paint that is meant for figurines. It goes on like a dream and you only need 2 coats!!

[Former_Member]

Thanks for all the help!

[Former_Member]

I use Liquitex either soft body or heavy, I prefer soft but can't find that many colors around here. After painting, I either seal with Varathane, or cure for 10-15 minutes in a 200 degree oven or for just a few minutes with an adjustable temp heat gun. I prefer to seal it, but for some things I just don't want the shiny spots.