Neutral background colors

[Former_Member]

I'd like to be able to keep all of my backgrounds consistent and usually use white. That doesn't work well for pale colors because they just fade away and black won't work on a black and white item. All of the other colors that I've tried tend to change the appearance of the colors in the original item. Is there some standard neutral other than white that photographers use as a background that won't cause that problem? Once I start playing with it in photo software to get the original colors back again then the background changes with it.

[MosswoodStudio]

At work (commercial product photography) we shoot almost everything on a white background. If it is lit correctly and white balanced correctly you won't have problems seeing it on the background.

[Former_Member]

You can use a light grey (gray) background or a very light pastel color that complements the item you're photographing.

[Former_Member]

Thanks. I can try both of those. It would be great if I can figure out the exact shade of gray that's the page background in my stand-alone shop.

[Former_Member]

Tell me the URL of your stand-alone shop and I can probably tell you the exact color of the background.

[Former_Member]

Thanks so much - it's here:

http://www.mirabilisfashions.com/

I'd love to be able to make all of the backgrounds consistent even if I have to retake all of the ones that have a black background.

[Former_Member]

The color of your gray background is:
HTML, #CCCCCC;
RGB= Red 204, Green 204, Blue 204;
CMYK = Cyan 24%, Magenta 16%, Yellow 16%, Black 1%

You should be able to use one or more of the definitions in your photo editing program - usually you just click on the background indicator and it will give you a menu with a choice of actual colors or the ability to enter one or more of the above definitions (you only need one - they are all the same color, just using different color models).

It that doesn't help, let me know what program you're using for photo editing and I'll see if I can tell you how to set it up.

[Former_Member]

to continue w/ charlotte's point of how to photograph white on white. the lighting would have to be directional. best is to light from the side or the side slightly in back of the item w/ a white bounce card on the opposite side. there shouldn't be any other light source. the light source should also be a few feet from the item being photographed.

this creates a chiaroscuro effect. the key is to get a lot of variations in light reading on the camera. you'd be able to capture at least 5 zones (the zone system - ansel adams technical rating system for b&w photography. applies to color, too) on shades with this method if done correctly.

[Former_Member]

Thanks so much, Frank. My photo editing software will let me do that.

Thank you also, Sal. A lot of that went right over my head but as I learn more it will start to make sense.

[Former_Member]

This discussion is purrfect for my needs as well. I make veils so I always have white / or ivory to shoot. I've tried black backdrop, in the garden, and a light beige wall to no success in my opinion. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Kat

[Former_Member]

hi kat,

your items would work really well w/ one light from a side angle w/ a bounce card. you can have a white background, but there should be some distance between the item and the background - about 5 feet. you'll be able to get much more detail. this basically gives the effect of window light.

[Former_Member]

Thank you Sal, I really appreciate the advice.

[SantaFeKiss]

Wow this thread addresses the problem i am having right now. I also like white backgrounds but it is not working for me when our glass items have white around the edges. And when I use a different colored background the color in the background bleeds (reflects) on the white part of the glass.

I would love any suggestions as this has been driving me wacky.

Here is what I am currently using / doing:

- camera is a Cannon S95 powershot
- I am using a tri-pod and light box
- I have a quarto light (~5400K) on each side of light box.
- I am shooting glass pieces which reflects any background light so i am shooting at night when everything is dark other than quarto lights
- I shoot in RAW and convert using Bridge and a camera calibration software
- I am then doing major Photoshopping to the background of all glass pieces with white touching the edges. I adjust using curves using droppers of white, black and medium gray cards that were in the original image.

(The only exception is the most recent item I added today. It was taken at a camera shop using a DSLR so please ignore that image.)


Thanks for your time.

[Former_Member]

try removing one of the lights to see what kind of result you get. you should have a bit more shadow on one side.

[SantaFeKiss]

Thank Sal I will try that!!